One of my favorite places to visit in Costa Rica is the Arenal Volcano area.
You can also go to Monteverde but for me, Arenal is the better option. The roads are paved, the majestic Arenal Volcano is spectacular and although accommodation is slightly more expensive than Monteverde, you can find really nice places to stay for $50-60 for a double. In the past I recommended going to Arenal from Playas Del Coco and Tamarindo for just a day trip. But now I have discovered so many neat things to do there and reasonably priced accommodation, so I recommend staying the night.
The driver cost is $140 for day trips to Arenal from Playas Del Coco or $160 from Tamarindo. It makes for a long day, leaving around 7am and returning around 9pm. Maybe it’s better to spend the night there so you can enjoy more of the activities. The driver cost for two days, one night is $200 from Playas Del Coco or Riu Guanacaste and $220 from Tamarindo, Flamingo or Conchal.
You can also rent a car but I think you’ll find it cheaper and easier to hire a driver. Car rentals in Costa Rica are usually around $50-70 a day for a small car, gas is more expensive than in United States or Canada at around $5-6 a gallon, and driving in Costa Rica is dangerous, with horrible drivers, nasty pot holes, almost invisible bicyclists at night with no lights, and hardly any signs.
Here are some of the activities you can enjoy in the Arenal area:
The drive from Playas Del Coco to Arenal is just over 3 hours, so it’s nice to take a break when we arrive at Lake Arenal, an hour before the volcano. The are two places I can recommend to stop for coffee and baked sweets: Macademia Café and The German Bakery.
Macadamia Cafe in Nuevo Arenal overlooks Lake Arenal
Then when we arrive at the dam there are the hanging bridges. It’s a really nice 1-2 hour hike through the rainforest with around 15 suspension bridges high above the trees, and spectacular views of Arenal Volcano. The entry cost is around $24 each and is fairly strenuous.
The Hanging Bridges offers a strenuous hike through the rainforest
Next is the zipline canopy tour at Sky Trek. This is one of the best canopy tours in Costa Rica, with 9 long cables high above the rainforest with terrific views of the volcano. You take a tram lift up to the start point and sometimes you can see monkeys, birds and maybe a sloth. Sky Trek is a bit more expensive than other canopies at around $68 each, but I strongly recommend it…it’s worth it! There is also a butterfly sanctuary there.
The view at the start point of the Sky Trek Zip Line Canopy
Video showing the thrilling Sky Trek Canopy Tour
There is a spectacular waterfall near La Fortuna. It’s a strenuous 30 minute hike to the falls and it costs $10 each for the entry fee.
La Fortuna Waterfall
After a busy day in the Arenal area, you should relax at one of the many natural hot springs. I recommend Arenal Paraiso because they have 8 hot spring pools with different temperatures. It’s actually one spring at the top and the water runs down through the different pools and the water cools as it travels. They also have a zipline canopy onsite, not quite as scary as Sky Trek but still a lot of fun. Arenal Paraiso offers a package of zip lines, hot springs and an excellent lunch for $90 each. It’s a great option if you are a bit unsure of the very scary Sky Trek ziplines.
Arenal Paraiso offers natural hot springs and canopy on-site
There are lots of adventure options in the Arenal area. Two popular choices are white water rafting and canyoneering. Or if you prefer you can take a floating tour, which is a tranquil wander down a river, observing wildlife and exotic fauna.
White water rafting, canyoning and safari river float tours in Arenal
If you are staying the night I recommend Hotel La Fortuna. It’s right in the center of La Fortuna, off the main street. Nice, clean and comfortable rooms with A/C, reasonably priced from $50-60 with continental breakfast and wireless internet included. There are also three computers in the lobby.
Hotel La Fortuna in the shadow of Arenal Volcano
Low Season Prices (May 1 to December 20):
$50 (single without view)
$60 (single with view)
$63 (double without view)
$75 (double with view)
High Season Prices (December 20 to April 30):
$55 (single without view)
$65 (single with view)
$70 (double without view)
$85 (double with view)
Beside the hotel there is an excellent restaurant called Don Rufino’s. It’s more of a high end place, not cheap but terrific quality and quantity.
Don Rufino is an excellent restaurant in the heart of La Fortuna
You can see an example of their menu here (10,000 colones = $20 US):
I had Grandma’s Style Chicken (pollo abuela). It was unbelievably delicious! It was a half chicken wrapped in banana leaves, smothered in an incredible sweet BBQ sauce with potatoes and vegetables on the side. My friend ordered Chicken Courgettes for an appetizer, which we shared and were fantastic with a garlic butter dipping sauce. And she had a steak, perfectly tender, done medium rare, so delicious! I loved that restaurant, definitely you should try to visit there.
La Fortuna is a small town but it has a few bars with night life. We enjoyed drinks at The Lava Lounge on the main street, and I heard there is sometimes live music at some of the other bars.
When we are heading back home I recommend stopping at Moya’s Restaurant in Nuevo Arenal for one of the best pizzas I have enjoyed in Costa Rica. It’s just a small place in the center of town with around 10 tables but they have great meals including pizza, pasta and salads. I had a ‘Spitfire’ pizza with ground beef, onions, tomatoes and jalapeños! Really good and only 5000 colones (around $10).
TRANSPORT TO ARENAL
If you are flying into Liberia Airport and you are staying at Playas Del Coco or Tamarindo, you might consider going straight to Arenal from the airport. That could be a more efficient way to see Arenal. You could spend the night in Arenal without having to pay for the night at your beach hotel as well. I can help you with airport transfers and tours.
Typical costs are:
Liberia Airport to Playas Del Coco/Playa Hermosa/Ocotal – $40
Liberia Airport to Tamarindo/Flamingo/Conchal – $60
Playas Del Coco to Arenal (return same day) – $140
Playas Del Coco to Arenal (return next day) – $200
Tamarindo to Arenal (return same day) – $160
Tamarindo to Arenal (return next day) – $220
Prices are per car, not per person, for up to two people with luggage, or four people without luggage (the car is a regular sedan, comfortable with air conditioning). Day trips from the hotel Riu Guanacaste is also $140 (or $200 to return the next day).
Monteverde is also a great place but the problem with Monteverde is the terrible roads to get there. You need a 4×4 truck and it takes about an hour from the main highway near Caňas, down a horrible dirt road with large pot holes.
However, once you get there you can find several options for cheap accommodation, including the Treehouse and Camino Verde (under $20 for a double room).
In Monteverde one of the attractions is renting a dune buggy. Really great fun and not expensive, around $90 for three hours.
Rent a Dune Buggy in Monteverde!
If you are interested in going to Arenal, please send me an email at and I can help you get it arranged.
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